Reproduzo aqui a inacreditável (uma primeira parte) da lista de “seres da lagoa azul” compilada por Jeffrey Steingarten quando de sua viagem a Veneza. Num deliciosa encontro com Marcella Hazan, diante da incrível variedade de frutos do mar disponíveis nas feiras da cidade, o autor preparou uma espécie de glossário destes pequenos seres.
Me lembrou muito os bestiários que estudo - uma espécie de bestiário marinho. O mais divertido é tentar imaginar uma receita para cada tipo. Aceitas o desafio?
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Acciughe (sardoni): anchovas, chamadas alici em torno de Roma.
Aguglia: peixe-agulha, encontrado às vezes nos melhores bares de sushi.
Anguilla (bisato): enguia.
Aragosta: lagosta de pedra, a langouste francesa.
Astaco (astise): como a lagosta do Maine; importada da Iugoslávia ou da França; astice em italiano vernacular.
Bianchetti: filhotes de arenque; também conhecidos como gianchetti.
Branzino (bransin): na França, bar ou loup de mer; Marcella o compara ao labrolistrado; outros dizem que é uma garoupa ou badejo de uma espécie diferente (Labrax lupus) da nossa; em Roma, spigola ou spinola; delicioso em qualquer idioma.
(cagnoleto): tubarão muito pequeno, freqüentemente guisado com molho de tomate.
Calamaretti: lulinhas com quatro centímetros de comprimento, fritas inteiras, incríveis.
Calamaro: lula.
Calamarone: lula grande.
Canestrelli (canestreli): penteolas minúsculas, que são menores que as vieiras e têm gosto picante; os primos americanos mais próximos são as vieiras Peconic e Digby bay; nesse caso, como em outros (por exemplo, schile), os venezianos não pronunciam o i final.
Cannocchia (canocia): tamarutaca encontrada apenas no Adriático e no Japão, cinza-rosada, achatada, cinco centímetros de largura e vinte de comprimento; grelhada ou cozida em vapor, o crustáceo mais tenro que se possa comer; também pannoccia.
Cannolichi (capelonghe): solenídeos.
Capitone: uma espécie de enguia longa e gorda.
Carpe sante (capesante): penteolas grandes, doces e macias.
Carpa: carpa.
Cefalo (lotregan, verzelata, bosega, caustelo, volpina): diferentes variedades de tainha, entre as quais a mais apreciada é o cefalo durato (lotregan).
Coda di rospo: cauda de cação-anjo; literalmente, rabo de sapo, embora a porção maior desse peixe seja uma cabeça feíssima; formalmente, rana pescatrice.
Cozze (peoci): mexilhões, também chamado mitili.
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